Hairline cracks in drywall . HandymanUSA - Drywall Repair Questions and Answers

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Inside drywall corners are a bit more difficult to finish than flat seams, and an inexperienced worker may fail to spread enough mud or to sufficiently scrape the tape. The result is tape that bubbles and separates. This problem isn t very difficult to fix, but you may have more trouble if cracks appear in the corners. Corner cracks often signify that the walls are shifting and will eventually reappear if you simply coat them with mud.

Even if you can t stabilize the walls, you can fortify the drywall corners so they don t crack as easily. 3 Spread a new coat of mud over each damaged area. All-purpose, pre-mixed mud works well, but you can also make your own by mixing powdered joint compound with water in a bucket. The mud should be as thick as peanut butter. 4 Lay paper drywall tape over each repair.

Dip the tape in water before you apply it to make it adhere and flatten better. Scrape the tape flat and recoat it immediately with mud. Scrape that mud flat and let the repair dry overnight. 5 Recoat once or twice more, using a wider knife to scrape each coat and progressively flatten the seam. Let each coat dry before applying the next, and sand the final coat with 120-grit sandpaper.

Prime the repair with drywall primer before you paint it. 2 Prepare a small amount of setting-type, or hot, mud. Pour some powder into a mudding tray, add water and stir until it is lump-free and about the consistency of honey. You can mix it thinner than the non-setting variety because it doesn t shrink and is best applied in thin coats. 3 Spread the hot mud on both walls that form the corner with a 4-inch drywall knife.

Cut enough fiberglass mesh drywall tape to cover the seam, crease it lengthwise and lay it on top of the mud. Spread another coat of mud on top of the tape and scrape it flat. 4 Let the hot mud dry completely, which takes from 6 to 10 hours, then recoat it with two or three coats of non-setting mud, scraping each coat flat and letting it dry before applying the next. Sand and prime the final coat before you paint it. Tip Both fiberglass mesh tape and hot mud resist cracking, so the combination should provide a permanent repair unless the shifting of the walls is extreme. Hot mud is difficult to sand, so it s important to scrape it flat before it stiffens.

Warning Determine the setting time of the hot mud by reading the instructions on the container and mix only as much as you can use in that time. Don t spread it if it begins to stiffen, and be sure to clean your tools and tray before it sets. Related Articles How to Repair a Painted Drywall Seam How to Fix a Hairline Crack in a Textured Sheetrock Ceiling How to Drywall a 45-Degree Corner How to Fix a Bad Drywall Tape Job How to Fix Drywall on an Already Painted Wall How to Fix a Bubble in Drywall Tape More Articles How to Fix Cracked Walls Permanently How to Fix Metal Corners on a Wall How to Fix a Sheetrock Wall That Separates From the Ceiling How to FIx Drywall Cracks How to Fix Torn Drywall Facing How to Fill an Uneven Edge of Drywall Trending in Your Area How to Avoid the Top 5 First-Time Homebuyer Mistakes (sponsored) Former 49ers player Vernon Davis puts San Jose mansion on market for $2.849 million Russian Hill contemporary with sweeping city views Sound Off: Privacy during the transaction process Live-work loft near Caltrain in South Beach open Sunday Customer Support visit|Home-Contact SFGate-Customer Support|navigation-www|2 Submissions & Tips visit|Home-Contact SFGate-Submissions & Tips|navigation-www|3 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Are YOU ready to tackle your basement finishing project yourself, saving thousands and getting the satisfaction of knowing YOU did it? Hey, my name is Eddie Case. You may know me as the “Basement Finishing Man” from YouTube.

Since 1992, My basement company and I have finished more than 520 basements and have designed over 2,600. Now, I have condensed EVERYTHING I’ve learned about designing and finishing basements into these easy to follow step-by-step training videos. These videos are so easy to follow that even folks with ZERO building experience have been able to follow along and build the basement they’ve always wanted. The fact of the matter is, you don’t need to pay a contractor tens of thousands of dollars to finish your basement for you. You don’t need to waste time and money buying materials you don’t need.

You too can have the satisfaction of finishing out your basement yourself and gain valuable experience in the process that will allow you to brag to your buddies and tackle almost any building project in the future. Please enjoy your stay on my site and feel free to contact me if you have any questions. When making cuts, should you cut directly on the line you’ve marked, or should you leave some sort of tolerance one way or the other? Circular saw blades are usually a lot thicker than a marked line, so I’m wondering if I’m cutting a lot more than I should be or if there’s a trick to knowing for sure. Hi Jeff! We always just leave the line visible…don’t cut the line-out…leave it!

If it fits perfect that’s great…if it needs a little bit more cut off you can trim the piece to a perfect fit if need be.You can always cut a little more off a piece that is too long, but you can’t add any wood back if you cut it too short! There’s an old saying that goes…”It’s always better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!” Eddie I have purchased your basement finishing video set and it’s proving to be extremely helpful. I have one question before I start with the project. The previous owners installed this silver foil bubble wrap on the interior foundation walls. Is it ok to just leave it in place and frame as normal? I can’t see it doing any harm.

Possibly some benefit but wanted to be sure. Thanks for any advice. Hello Jim! Yes this is just a wall blanket insulation wrap which does in fact increase the overall R-Value of your basement walls…just leave it and dive right into your framing project.

Good luck with your project and thank again for purchasing my basement finishing training! Eddie Hi Eddie, (I tried posting this elsewhere and it wouldn’t work for some reason.) I’m just getting started with planning my basement finishing project. My house is 106 years old and the basement floors are uneven. Would you still recommend I build my walls flat on the floor? How would you recommend I handle this situation?

Shims? I was thinking I get my footers and headers secured and then cut my studs the appropriate lengths…of course this will take much longer. Thanks for your help!

Hello Jacob! It does not matter if your older concrete floor is “up & down”! Just build the wall flat like I show you in the framing training videos. Measure each stud at it’s own location by measuring up to the bottom of the floor joists, directly off of the top of your “stacked” wall plates, and cut those measurements minus 1/4″, and that will be each individual studs length. You can then assemble the wall on the floor completed and stand the new wall up, all pre-assembled, and into position and fasten your new built wall like a PRO!Not Rocket Science for sure…!

I DO NOT “stick build” my walls, which is what you do when you fasten the top plate and then the bottom plate and then cut and add one stud at a time…this takes forever and will require all of your nailing to be angle “toe-nailing”…which splits the studs at the top and the bottom of the stud and also makes for weaker constructed walls! Hope this helps. Thanks again for becoming a Basement Finishing University(BFU) member! Eddie Eddie, I purchased your pro series and have a framing problem. My staircase has a steel beam running next to it.

I need to put studs up along the staircase for drywall, but the only thing to fasten the header of the wall is the steel beam. I doubt the ramset will punch through 1/2 inch thick steel and since the steel has rust liquid nails seems like a bad option. Any thoughts or recommendations? Hi Jason!

Use the Ramset and shoot the top plate into the steel beam(wear safety glasses!) The steel pins from the Ramset will hold! They may not penetrate completely but they will grab and hold forever. I do this all the time and the wall will be very solid along the top plate. Eddie barry on April 13, 2016 at 2:31 pm said: Your comment is awaiting moderation. the way my basement is laid out, my main section is 10 ft wide and 40 ft long. should I hang 10 ft drywall and eliminate all butt joints.

This would be running them with parallel with the ceiling joists. I want it to look good when I’m done. Thanks Eddie – thanks for all your videos. They’re great. I’ve been doing a lot of research on various components of finishing a basement and right now I am focusing on insulation. I know that you don’t use XPS rigid foam on your walls but A LOT of research suggests that simply using fiberglass batts can lead to mold issues.

Do you not agree with this? I don’t have a wet basement but my foundation walls “bubble” and crumble in some parts even though it’s been covered in drylock. Seems that moisture is “trapped” in the walls and tying to make it’s way out.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you Eddie- Bought your full video series a year ago- just now onto the project. your videos have helped me get all the way to drywall- this weekend it happens, thanks!

question is, dry walling my ceiling and the way my joists run and my room is long and narrow (37′X17′) I will have twice as many butt joints on the ceiling if I run drywall perpendicular to the joists. with 10′ sheets of drywall, if I run the parallel with the joist I can have as little as 10 butt joints on the whole ceiling vs. 16 or so if I run the drywall perpendicular with joists- what do you think? is the downfall of running parallel worth it for an amateur to get less butt joints? I am taking on the drywall myself, against your advice I know- but I’ve come this far on my own!.

thanks for your thoughts! Hi Dan! You can certainly hang the drywall parallel to the joists as long as your joists are nice and straight and even along the bottom. I still would recommend hanging the board perpendicular to the joists it’s definitely more “forgiving” in terms of uneven less than perfect framing. Eddie Hi Eddie, well after hanging 80% of the drywall in my 650 sq ft

TV - Black Screen, White Line Accross - ...

More WALL FINISHES INTERIOR - CONTENTS: Definition and illustration of types of interior wall finishes and systems: types of plaster walls, drywall, brick, stone, and. Sheetrock, known more generically as drywall, doesn t crack easily, so when a hairline crack develops in the ceiling, it s a cause for concern. Couple comments/tips for your readers. – Using 1/2″ drywall on the ceiling like they did without strapping isn’t a great idea. Either insist on 5/8″ or 1/2.

Bing: hairline cracks in drywall

More Inside drywall corners can develop hairline cracks that over time can grow larger and visible through your paint, so it’s important to take a few precautionary. My basement walls are cement blocks which have been painted over. The paint is flaking in spots and shows signs of mildew. What would be the most cost-effective way. Basement Finishing Videos teaches you how to finish basement. How to frame a basement to how to finish a basement , such questions would be solved

Get rid of cracks in walls - YouTube

More Do cracks in my walls indicate a structural problem?-Rachel. Most small cracks in drywall or plaster walls are not serious and are caused by seasonal expansion and. Learn the best type of drywall tape--paper, mesh, fiberglass, or metal--to use for your next remodeling project. Repairing Stucco Cracks, Why New Render Stucco Walls Crack Hello everyone, here s a bit more information to my most asked question, hairline cracking and.